Whang-od Mambabatok Tattoos for the First Time International Traveler
In April of 2018 I visited Whang-od’s village and found a lack of clear information online about the experience of the adventure. Most blogs I read didn’t give me the details I wanted and often I found information in Tagalog that didn’t translate well. So here I will try to provide as many details about how to get there, what to expect, what to bring, and how to care for your new tattoo so you can have a smooth trip to Buscalan. Everything is based on an American white woman’s point of view but can be similar for fair skinned Europeans. This is my experience so yours may be drastically different.
While Buscalan is having a hard time with the massive amounts of tourism coming into their village I would rather see people going prepared than not. That is why this blog exists.
Scroll to the bottom for a quick summary of the costs.
Please do not throw your trash on the ground and please be respectful with your photography. They are not a zoo exhibit so ask permission before snapping photos.
While Buscalan is having a hard time with the massive amounts of tourism coming into their village I would rather see people going prepared than not. That is why this blog exists.
Scroll to the bottom for a quick summary of the costs.
Please do not throw your trash on the ground and please be respectful with your photography. They are not a zoo exhibit so ask permission before snapping photos.
For white travelers, especially women: you will be stared at constantly in the mountain areas. They will watch you walk down the street, eat, sit, talk, and anything else you may do. Manila comes with some staring because they’re used to travelers but the more remote you get, the more they stare. I didn’t find it to be predatory stare but more of a curious one. They wonder why women travel alone and they’re also curious about the differences in the way we look. This is just a word of warning to those that this will make uncomfortable. Filipinos are also reluctant to speak English if they aren’t perfect at it because they’re self conscious of their grammar. Be patient and know that most of them understand what you’re saying even if they can’t respond. Speak slowly and clearly(I’ve been guilty of speaking too fast).
I’m 5’5” and am taller than most of the men and women of the Philippines. Be prepared to stoop down for doorways and things hanging on walkways.
I’m 5’5” and am taller than most of the men and women of the Philippines. Be prepared to stoop down for doorways and things hanging on walkways.
1. Manila to Bontoc:
I recommend buying a bus ticket in advance because they fill up fast. The weekends are the busiest both for buses and for the village. I bought my ticket thru BiyaHeros from the states and paid thru PayPal. The ticket is 685 pesos with a service charge of 68.50p and a payment processing fee of 52.68p for a grand total of 806.17p. ($15.48USD). You HAVE to print off the ticket before arriving! If you have issues with the website go into your phone settings and change your time zone to Manila.
My bus left Cubao at 8pm and arrived in Bontoc at 6:30am. They kept the air conditioning on high so I recommend warmer clothes or a blanket. There’s one bathroom break and they don’t give you long so don’t mess around. The ride is extremely bumpy on a lot of curvy mountain roads so if you get car sick bring medicine. It’s a good idea to bring snacks and a bottle of water.
I recommend buying a bus ticket in advance because they fill up fast. The weekends are the busiest both for buses and for the village. I bought my ticket thru BiyaHeros from the states and paid thru PayPal. The ticket is 685 pesos with a service charge of 68.50p and a payment processing fee of 52.68p for a grand total of 806.17p. ($15.48USD). You HAVE to print off the ticket before arriving! If you have issues with the website go into your phone settings and change your time zone to Manila.
My bus left Cubao at 8pm and arrived in Bontoc at 6:30am. They kept the air conditioning on high so I recommend warmer clothes or a blanket. There’s one bathroom break and they don’t give you long so don’t mess around. The ride is extremely bumpy on a lot of curvy mountain roads so if you get car sick bring medicine. It’s a good idea to bring snacks and a bottle of water.
2. Bontoc to Bugnay:
In Bontoc you can find fresh fruit, cooked food, water, and any other supplies you may need. When you leave Bontoc you’ll take a Jeepney from the Sadanga’s terminal that will head north. They have a few that go throughout the day starting as early as 6:30am. I took the one at 9:00am. For the experience I sat on top and it was not scary. They drive about 20-30km an hour and I never felt like I was going to fall off. The best views are to the east so I recommend sitting on the right side of the Jeepney. Prepare to get close to the other passengers because they don’t turn a fare away no matter how crowded. (The joke is ‘how many people can a Jeepney fit? One more!’) The ride cost 100p and took around an hour. Don’t worry about anything because the drivers know how to handle the road and any problems(such as a blown tire, like we had).
There is cell service with Globe in the middle of Bontoc and spotty on the ride up to Bugnay. From Bugnay there is none.
From another traveler I heard the last Jeepney runs at 2:00pm so it’s best to get there early.
In Bontoc you can find fresh fruit, cooked food, water, and any other supplies you may need. When you leave Bontoc you’ll take a Jeepney from the Sadanga’s terminal that will head north. They have a few that go throughout the day starting as early as 6:30am. I took the one at 9:00am. For the experience I sat on top and it was not scary. They drive about 20-30km an hour and I never felt like I was going to fall off. The best views are to the east so I recommend sitting on the right side of the Jeepney. Prepare to get close to the other passengers because they don’t turn a fare away no matter how crowded. (The joke is ‘how many people can a Jeepney fit? One more!’) The ride cost 100p and took around an hour. Don’t worry about anything because the drivers know how to handle the road and any problems(such as a blown tire, like we had).
There is cell service with Globe in the middle of Bontoc and spotty on the ride up to Bugnay. From Bugnay there is none.
From another traveler I heard the last Jeepney runs at 2:00pm so it’s best to get there early.
3. From Bugnay to Buscalan:
My Jeepney dropped us off at Bugnay while some may go all the way up. If you get dropped off you then hop on the back of someone’s motorcycle and they will take you to Buscalan for 100p. There is a small store that may or may not be open so don’t count on it. This is the end of the road that you can travel without a guide. Cell service is non-existent at this point forward.
You must get a guide at this point.
My Jeepney dropped us off at Bugnay while some may go all the way up. If you get dropped off you then hop on the back of someone’s motorcycle and they will take you to Buscalan for 100p. There is a small store that may or may not be open so don’t count on it. This is the end of the road that you can travel without a guide. Cell service is non-existent at this point forward.
You must get a guide at this point.
Why You Have To Get a Guide:
The people of Buscalan are making a living off of being a guide, host, or selling merchandise so please be prepared to spend some money. The most commonly spoken language in the Philippines is Tagalog but in Buscalan they speak But-but. Your guide will speak Tagalog, English and But-but so they will arrange your accommodations. It is recommended you set up with one in advance and it’s also recommended to go as a group. If you’re like me and travel alone try to find a group to attach to on the Jeepney or at Buscalan. If you arrive without one there will be guides waiting who can take you up. Each guide can comfortably handle up to 5 people. My guide was Tintin and she was a fantastic one. Her number is +639106412249.
The average price for a guide is 1,000p a day which can be split among a group. Your guide will stay with you for the entirety of your stay, get you in line for tattoos, show you around the village, make sure you eat, have water, and are comfortable.
The people of Buscalan are making a living off of being a guide, host, or selling merchandise so please be prepared to spend some money. The most commonly spoken language in the Philippines is Tagalog but in Buscalan they speak But-but. Your guide will speak Tagalog, English and But-but so they will arrange your accommodations. It is recommended you set up with one in advance and it’s also recommended to go as a group. If you’re like me and travel alone try to find a group to attach to on the Jeepney or at Buscalan. If you arrive without one there will be guides waiting who can take you up. Each guide can comfortably handle up to 5 people. My guide was Tintin and she was a fantastic one. Her number is +639106412249.
The average price for a guide is 1,000p a day which can be split among a group. Your guide will stay with you for the entirety of your stay, get you in line for tattoos, show you around the village, make sure you eat, have water, and are comfortable.
About Buscalan Villagers:
The hike into Buscalan is around an hour and a half and is very strenuous for the average person. It is a lot of uphill concrete stairs, it’s humid, it may be hot, and it may rain. My group and I took many breaks to get there so come prepared with a rag for sweat and a large bottle of water.
Once in town you’ll pay a 75p registration fee(do not pay this anywhere else) and then your guide will find somewhere for you to sleep. You’ll have a bathroom, mattress and kitchen to use with rice and coffee complimentary. The price for Marina’s Homestay, which where I stayed, was 250p a night. The water is safe to drink, there is an eatery that costs 100p for rice and meat(mostly fish), there’s a store where you can buy canned food/Gatorade/cigarettes, and there is electricity. If you’re not used to the bathrooms in the Philippines yet then you’ll figure out that they don’t provide toilet paper, don’t use toilet seats, and to flush the toilet you dump cups of water into it. There is no shower stall, just a faucet, bucket, scoop, and a drain in the floor.
Many villagers sell souvenirs that range from 50-500p. These include purses, necklaces, bracelets, tattoo sticks, teeth necklaces, lanyards, headbands, T-shirt’s, and knives.
Villagers may speak some English and will often say “good morning”. Please be polite to them. They are also prone to pointing out the differences between them and you so don’t take offense. They spoke about my nose and said it was “beautiful”. They don’t mean any ill will by their remarks and I felt charmed by being “exotic” to them.
All villagers have cell phones(probably two, one touch screen and one brick), play American country and pop music, and have TV. They’re not as detached from modern society as you may expect.
The hike into Buscalan is around an hour and a half and is very strenuous for the average person. It is a lot of uphill concrete stairs, it’s humid, it may be hot, and it may rain. My group and I took many breaks to get there so come prepared with a rag for sweat and a large bottle of water.
Once in town you’ll pay a 75p registration fee(do not pay this anywhere else) and then your guide will find somewhere for you to sleep. You’ll have a bathroom, mattress and kitchen to use with rice and coffee complimentary. The price for Marina’s Homestay, which where I stayed, was 250p a night. The water is safe to drink, there is an eatery that costs 100p for rice and meat(mostly fish), there’s a store where you can buy canned food/Gatorade/cigarettes, and there is electricity. If you’re not used to the bathrooms in the Philippines yet then you’ll figure out that they don’t provide toilet paper, don’t use toilet seats, and to flush the toilet you dump cups of water into it. There is no shower stall, just a faucet, bucket, scoop, and a drain in the floor.
Many villagers sell souvenirs that range from 50-500p. These include purses, necklaces, bracelets, tattoo sticks, teeth necklaces, lanyards, headbands, T-shirt’s, and knives.
Villagers may speak some English and will often say “good morning”. Please be polite to them. They are also prone to pointing out the differences between them and you so don’t take offense. They spoke about my nose and said it was “beautiful”. They don’t mean any ill will by their remarks and I felt charmed by being “exotic” to them.
All villagers have cell phones(probably two, one touch screen and one brick), play American country and pop music, and have TV. They’re not as detached from modern society as you may expect.
What to Bring:
These are all things that I personally recommend you bring but you may have different needs than I do. Remember you’ll be carrying what you choose to bring on an uphill hike.
- Quick drying clothes, a hoodie, good hiking footwear, towel, hat, poncho, umbrella. Even in April, which is supposed to be a dry month, it rained briefly every afternoon.
- Baby wipes, a refillable water bottle, soaps, toilet paper, toothpaste, toothbrush, comb.
- External battery pack and cords for charging your phone and cameras.
- Small toys for the kids can be brought as a gift. (Candy is often brought but may be causing teeth issues) It is unnecessary to bring anything.
You can can buy food and the water is safe to drink so it’s unnecessary to haul it in. The water comes from the mountains.
These are all things that I personally recommend you bring but you may have different needs than I do. Remember you’ll be carrying what you choose to bring on an uphill hike.
- Quick drying clothes, a hoodie, good hiking footwear, towel, hat, poncho, umbrella. Even in April, which is supposed to be a dry month, it rained briefly every afternoon.
- Baby wipes, a refillable water bottle, soaps, toilet paper, toothpaste, toothbrush, comb.
- External battery pack and cords for charging your phone and cameras.
- Small toys for the kids can be brought as a gift. (Candy is often brought but may be causing teeth issues) It is unnecessary to bring anything.
You can can buy food and the water is safe to drink so it’s unnecessary to haul it in. The water comes from the mountains.
About the Tattoos:
Apo(a word to show respect) Whang-od does NOT do full tattoos anymore because she is 101 years old and her eyesight isn’t up to it anymore. You can get her signature, the 3 dots, for 100p and I recommend getting there at 6am to get in line. It can take 1-3 days to see Grace because she is so popular so be patient and be prepared to wait all day at the hut to be seen. If you’re not there waiting then you aren’t in line. There are many other artists that aren’t as well known who can do your tattoo in the evening at your homestay, which is how I got mine from Rea. Each artist gets paid for their work so please consider supporting as many of them as you can. You will be given the thorn that they tattooed you with at the end and you can opt to buy a tattoo stick for 100p to put it in.
My tattoo from Grace(traveler’s compass) cost 700p and took around an hour. My tattoo from Rea, who’s 14 and did the half arm band, cost 1,500 and took a few hours. They don’t feel anything like modern tattoos. They still hurt but I wouldn’t say any more or any less, just differently. I ended up bleeding a lot more than I ever have with modern techniques.
After Tattoo Care:
They use coconut oil on your tattoo in the village after they finish but you have to continue treatment for weeks afterwards. I use a petroleum based healing ointment(Aquaphor) for the rest of the healing process. The traditional method is very traumatic to the skin so expect soreness, swelling, and redness for the first few days. Clean your tattoo 2-4 times a day with antibacterial soap(SafeGuard) and keep moisturized. Don’t saturate your tattoo, just apply a thin layer of lotion a few times a day. Avoid too much sun exposure for the first week and don’t swim in the ocean, hot tubs, pools, lakes or rivers for 2 weeks. There are bacterias in the water that can kill you by coming in thru your new injury, otherwise known as a tattoo. For long term care use sunscreen to protect from long sun exposure to keep your tattoo looking good.
Processes of tattoo healing:
Days 1-7: Soreness, redness, oozing, swelling with each day showing progress. Wash with antibacterial soap regular and keep moisturized.
Days 8-14: Dryness, peeling and itching. Do not peel off the skin! Let the skin fall off naturally or you risk pulling the ink out. It will fall off during washing. Continue to keep moisturized.
Days: 15-40: The tattoo may look cloudy until healing is complete. The top layer healed first and now your body is working on the deeper layers. It’s safe to swim at this point.
Apo(a word to show respect) Whang-od does NOT do full tattoos anymore because she is 101 years old and her eyesight isn’t up to it anymore. You can get her signature, the 3 dots, for 100p and I recommend getting there at 6am to get in line. It can take 1-3 days to see Grace because she is so popular so be patient and be prepared to wait all day at the hut to be seen. If you’re not there waiting then you aren’t in line. There are many other artists that aren’t as well known who can do your tattoo in the evening at your homestay, which is how I got mine from Rea. Each artist gets paid for their work so please consider supporting as many of them as you can. You will be given the thorn that they tattooed you with at the end and you can opt to buy a tattoo stick for 100p to put it in.
My tattoo from Grace(traveler’s compass) cost 700p and took around an hour. My tattoo from Rea, who’s 14 and did the half arm band, cost 1,500 and took a few hours. They don’t feel anything like modern tattoos. They still hurt but I wouldn’t say any more or any less, just differently. I ended up bleeding a lot more than I ever have with modern techniques.
After Tattoo Care:
They use coconut oil on your tattoo in the village after they finish but you have to continue treatment for weeks afterwards. I use a petroleum based healing ointment(Aquaphor) for the rest of the healing process. The traditional method is very traumatic to the skin so expect soreness, swelling, and redness for the first few days. Clean your tattoo 2-4 times a day with antibacterial soap(SafeGuard) and keep moisturized. Don’t saturate your tattoo, just apply a thin layer of lotion a few times a day. Avoid too much sun exposure for the first week and don’t swim in the ocean, hot tubs, pools, lakes or rivers for 2 weeks. There are bacterias in the water that can kill you by coming in thru your new injury, otherwise known as a tattoo. For long term care use sunscreen to protect from long sun exposure to keep your tattoo looking good.
Processes of tattoo healing:
Days 1-7: Soreness, redness, oozing, swelling with each day showing progress. Wash with antibacterial soap regular and keep moisturized.
Days 8-14: Dryness, peeling and itching. Do not peel off the skin! Let the skin fall off naturally or you risk pulling the ink out. It will fall off during washing. Continue to keep moisturized.
Days: 15-40: The tattoo may look cloudy until healing is complete. The top layer healed first and now your body is working on the deeper layers. It’s safe to swim at this point.
Once you Leave Buscalan:
I’m an avid camper and tried to camp thru the mountains once I left. While it isn’t illegal to sleep wherever you want it can be VERY hard to find a spot you can get to because the land is steep. A tent would be almost impossible because of the terrain. I recommend if you try to gett off along the road away from a village because people come and go all night. If you’re a solo woman men may try to sexually harass you as it happened to me.
Riding a Motorcycle There:
If you rent a motorcycle to get to Buscalan find a place to leave it in Bontoc, possibly with a hotel or the police department. It is not advisable to leave it in Buscalan and hike off. To get to Bontoc be very careful as vehicles cross the lines in curves, there’s rocks in the road and occasionally gravel. Speed limits are non-existent so the Jeepneys, vans, and buses drive like madmen. Please be cautious riding thru the mountains.
For the Sightseers:
The road from Bontoc to Baguio is gorgeous especially in the Mount Data area. It costs 90p to go from Bontoc to Baguias and about 2 hours in a van. Then another 150p to go from Baguias to Baguio and another 3 hours in a van. The best sights are to the east.
I’m an avid camper and tried to camp thru the mountains once I left. While it isn’t illegal to sleep wherever you want it can be VERY hard to find a spot you can get to because the land is steep. A tent would be almost impossible because of the terrain. I recommend if you try to gett off along the road away from a village because people come and go all night. If you’re a solo woman men may try to sexually harass you as it happened to me.
Riding a Motorcycle There:
If you rent a motorcycle to get to Buscalan find a place to leave it in Bontoc, possibly with a hotel or the police department. It is not advisable to leave it in Buscalan and hike off. To get to Bontoc be very careful as vehicles cross the lines in curves, there’s rocks in the road and occasionally gravel. Speed limits are non-existent so the Jeepneys, vans, and buses drive like madmen. Please be cautious riding thru the mountains.
For the Sightseers:
The road from Bontoc to Baguio is gorgeous especially in the Mount Data area. It costs 90p to go from Bontoc to Baguias and about 2 hours in a van. Then another 150p to go from Baguias to Baguio and another 3 hours in a van. The best sights are to the east.
Other guide numbers found on the FaceBook group “Tattooed by Apo Whang-od”(click to view):
Eddie - +63 928 402 4973
Mikael - +63 907 0315411
Joel - +63 910 617 7241
Charlie - +63 939 748 4707
Amboy - +63 999 728 2869
Gilbert - +939 977 8934
Lorena - +63 948 844 8326
Romy - +63 916 403 1208
Weber - +63 905 869 6947
Selma - +63 946 169 1308
Jo - +63 907 609 9785
Racquel - +63 910 140 8693
Benjie - +63 948 077 4818
Danny - +63 909 552 1591
Oliver Luis - +63 939 774 1477
Kenedy - +63 909 195 0072
Gaspar - +63 999 180 5012
Christian - +63 920 710 5885
Freddie - +63 909 495 0877
Mindu Wigan - +63 948 581 5554
Victor - +63 926 809 0354
Raffy - +63 946 763 7948
Ibot - +63 936 570 6602
Eddie - +63 928 402 4973
Mikael - +63 907 0315411
Joel - +63 910 617 7241
Charlie - +63 939 748 4707
Amboy - +63 999 728 2869
Gilbert - +939 977 8934
Lorena - +63 948 844 8326
Romy - +63 916 403 1208
Weber - +63 905 869 6947
Selma - +63 946 169 1308
Jo - +63 907 609 9785
Racquel - +63 910 140 8693
Benjie - +63 948 077 4818
Danny - +63 909 552 1591
Oliver Luis - +63 939 774 1477
Kenedy - +63 909 195 0072
Gaspar - +63 999 180 5012
Christian - +63 920 710 5885
Freddie - +63 909 495 0877
Mindu Wigan - +63 948 581 5554
Victor - +63 926 809 0354
Raffy - +63 946 763 7948
Ibot - +63 936 570 6602
Quick summary of costs coming from Manila:
Bus from Cubao to Bontoc - 685p
Jeepney from Bontoc to Bugnay - 100p
Motorcycle ride from Bugnay up the hill(can be split with 2 people) - 100p
Guide per day(can be split among many people) - 1000p
Registration fee - 75p per person
Homestay fee per night - 250-350p per person
Tattoos - 100p - 2,000p each
Jeepney back to Bontoc - 100p
Bontoc to Manila - 685p
HYPOTHETICAL TOTALS:
Total for 1 person and 1 night with no tattoos - 3,095 (not including food)
Total for a group of 4 for 1 night with no tattoos - 2,295 per person (not including food)
Bus from Cubao to Bontoc - 685p
Jeepney from Bontoc to Bugnay - 100p
Motorcycle ride from Bugnay up the hill(can be split with 2 people) - 100p
Guide per day(can be split among many people) - 1000p
Registration fee - 75p per person
Homestay fee per night - 250-350p per person
Tattoos - 100p - 2,000p each
Jeepney back to Bontoc - 100p
Bontoc to Manila - 685p
HYPOTHETICAL TOTALS:
Total for 1 person and 1 night with no tattoos - 3,095 (not including food)
Total for a group of 4 for 1 night with no tattoos - 2,295 per person (not including food)
Glossary of words:
Mambabatok - traditional kalinga tattooist
Apo or po - a sign of respect to others
Buscalan, Bugnay, Bontoc - Philippine towns
Jeepney - an elongated diesel Jeep that fits 25-35 people
Van - a diesel van that seats 12-16
Tagalog words:
Pakiusap - please
Hello - hello
Salamat - thank you
Magkano - how much?
Pasensya na - I’m sorry
Magandang araw - good day
Magandang gabi - good night
Turu-turu - point and eat
Mambabatok - traditional kalinga tattooist
Apo or po - a sign of respect to others
Buscalan, Bugnay, Bontoc - Philippine towns
Jeepney - an elongated diesel Jeep that fits 25-35 people
Van - a diesel van that seats 12-16
Tagalog words:
Pakiusap - please
Hello - hello
Salamat - thank you
Magkano - how much?
Pasensya na - I’m sorry
Magandang araw - good day
Magandang gabi - good night
Turu-turu - point and eat
If you have any questions for me personally, need advice, or have feedback please email me or message me on Facebook. Email - ziya3@yahoo.com