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August 2010: Romania!

This is Zee’s daily thoughts and whatnots. It will be observations, stories of events, and pictures from every day travel life. She plans to use it for a more detailed story later down the road and it’s not intended to be a good read. But you’re welcome to check it out nonetheless.

Wednesday August 7 - Friday August 9

I got to SFO much earlier than I needed to be and thankfully I printed my boarding pass beforehand so I could get thru security early. For a few hours I relaxed in a spot by the windows until it was time to move towards my gate and unto the sardine can they call an airplane for my 13 hour flight to Istanbul.

As as soon as I got on the plane, the lady next to me asked if I would exchange my window seat for an aisle seat. I said no because I won’t be able to sleep unless I have the wall to lean against and I could tell she was miffed about it. It didn’t take me long to realize that the reason she asked was because her son was special needs. While I’m not one for being touched, his random flails and movements didn’t bother me because I could tell they were innocent. She was constantly apologizing and I kept telling her that it was fine. For awhile I even let him sleep on me and it really wasn’t even a thing. At the end of the flight she said something like “thank you for being a good person. So many people are mean to my son”, in which I responded “it’s a sad world that you have to thank someone for just being a decent human being.” Anyway, moving on.

In Istanbul finally and of course my flight was late, giving me all of 17 minutes from the time I got off the transport bus on the tarmac to the terminals to get to my gate for my next flight. I arrived right on time for boarding... And proceeded to hurry up and wait for the next hour, only boarding about the time we should’ve been taking off. Luckily the flight was only about an hour and a half, all of which I was unconscious for because I didn’t sleep on the first leg much.

I landed in Romania sometime around 9pm on Thursday August 8 (I left San Francisco at 6:30pm on Wednesday August 7). There was a massive line for customs but went surprisingly easy. I didn’t get asked a single question besides how long I was staying. Cool, way easier than getting into Canada. I now have my third passport stamp!

Walking, walking, walking some more and I finally get to the arrivals lobby where Maria was waiting for me. Oh, what a sight it is to see a friend after a long travel! She took me to her house, giving me history of buildings as she went, and lots of local knowledge. Romania has beautiful architecture and I very much enjoy the city so far as I’ve experienced. The whole time I’m also watching traffic, how she drives, looking at street signs, and trying to get a bearing on how I should act when I start riding. We stopped for a couple groceries, I took a shower, and we all settled in for bed a couple hours after I got here.

Come Friday, August 9th, we start the day pretty early, and Maria takes me to her office. My first order was to walk to the store to get some juice since I puked all morning (probably due to taking ibuprofen on an empty stomach for a headache) and exchanged some cash at the store in front of her office (convenient). There she shows me around a bit and hands me a key to the bike I’ll be riding. Everyone at the office prepped me on the legalities of riding and what I would need so that was great. But I went ill prepared for riding because I didn’t know I would be picking the bike up... So I rode back her place in flip flops. It was my first time riding in flip flops and I honestly don’t prefer it. Her and Rolland went off for a weekend riding in the mountains and I took a nap. Around 7pm I headed off to the AFI mall where I needed to get phone service and shop for an adapter, knife, and lighter. I was successful with the adapter, survived ordering food, and had a good time walking around. It was a great chance to get ideas on prices, see what’s familiar, and look for gifts for friends. In the mall was a supermarket so I bought mostly beer and some orange juice. Once I got back to the house, I played on my phone while drinking said beer instead of sleeping. Adjusting to the time gap really takes a toll.

​August 9:
6 lei - morning drinks
32 lei - phone service 6gb, unlimited text/call
20 lei - wall adapter
25 lei - kebab wrap
62 lei - beer and oj
Total - 145 / $35

Saturday August 10 - Sunday August 11

I spent the entirety of Saturday August 10th dozing on the couch. My allergies flared up so I was with a sore throat and stuffy head and my solution was to sleep as much as possible. Since the day was so uneventful, I’m going to list some things I have noticed that are different here in Romania over the US. Let’s see... The light switches for the bathroom are outside the bathroom so I end up using a dark bathroom a lot. The handles for the sink point towards you and then you move them away to turn them on. Light switches are down for on and up for off (backwards to me). Lines between the lanes are suggestions but people pay good attention to bikes. All the crosswalks have lights for pedestrians and I can’t see the opposing side of traffics lights, so I can’t predict when they’ll turn. Lane splitting is expected and people move out of the way for you. The locks on doors are MUCH sturdier and they turn 2-3 times, engaging an extra deadbolt or extending more each time. Keys are different and fit both directions. You have to pay for plastic bags at the stores but most people use reusable. Bucharest is a very clean city so far. Cop presence is quite known so it feels decently safe. There’s plenty of ambulances around too. Many bikers ride in shorts and flip flops so I fit in well. I couldn’t find turkey or chicken lunch meat but a plethora of pork types. Nothing opens until around 10am and closes pretty early. Everything closes early on Saturday and nothing is open on Sunday. Well, that’s a few things I’ve noticed so far. Carrying on to Sunday...

August 10: 0
​
​Some of the few things open on Sunday happened to be Old Town Bucharest so I was fortunate to get a delicious bacon and goat cheese omelette for $5 in the tourist part of town. I also purchased a cheap anklet from what looked like gypsies in an old and beautiful building. Honestly, all the buildings were old and beautiful so I want to go back and photograph them more. I tried to stop a few places that google said were open.. And they weren’t. So with the heat (over 90°f), I just stopped for some groceries and went to the house where I yet again took a nap. Eventually I’ll get accustomed to the time zone... I just need a reason to stay up all day and it’ll be fixed.

August 11:
35 lei - Breakfast
10 lei - anklet
42 lei - groceries
Total- 87 / $21

Monday August 12 - Thursday August 15

Monday August 12:

August 12:
3 lei - hardware store
120 lei - military store
49 lei - groceries
22 lei - Chinese
Total - 194 / $47
​
Tuesday August 13:

August 13: 0

Wednesday August 14:
​
August 14:
48 lei - first aid kit
12 lei - lunch
60 lei - tools
36 lei - souvenir money
Total - 156 lei / $37.5

Thursday August 15:


August 15:
57 lei - roaming data plan
60 lei - multitool
40 lei - mouse and adapter
71 lei - auchan groceries
Total - 228 lei / $55

Week 1 total - $195.50

Friday August 16 - Saturday August 17

Having finally slept in a little later than 7 freaking am, I had the morning to myself as Rolland and Maria were out riding. Since Maria had brought a laptop home for me to use, I told her I would take it to the office at 10am so the employees could work on it. So I get it there then proceed to chat and lounge around with the office guys while waiting for Maria to hopefully get the clutch for my bike on her way back into town. Around 1pm I walked down to Pollo Grato to try some Portuguese smoked chicken for lunch, and yes, it was fabulously delicious.

Come 4pm, Maria and Rolland arrive with the clutch and Rolland helps the maintenance guy install it while I help Maria clean the office. The bike is now functional! The plan was now set to leave Sunday since I promised to help a client with a bike refresher course on Saturday.

Around 8pm, Rolland and I head to the house to get ready for dinner. Maria showed up after she picked up some clients from the airport and dropped them off at the hotel. She freshened up and we head off to a Romanian restaurant. They ordered wine and water for the table while we waited for a british client to arrive. Once he did arrive, three of us ordered Sarmale, which is a traditional dish of cabbage rolls filled with a mix of ground goose, pork, and veal boiled in white wine with some polenta, sour cream, and hot chili peppers while the client ordered a snack because he had already eaten. It was a superb dish that I thoroughly enjoyed and before we knew it, it was midnight. Rolland has a 6am flight so we had to leave the restaurant and go into the chilly night to wait for a ride. By 1am I was in bed and in a deep sleep.

​August 16:
20 lei - Porto Gallo lunch

Saturday August 17:

In the afternoon I had promised to teach David how to ride at a parking lot near Maria’s office. So before I went there to meet them I stopped at Dedeman hardware store for a lock for my helmet, which should be the last thing I need for the road. Then off to the office where I had a little time to kill. So I went to Mega Image and grabbed a couple pastries to try and by jolly, it was one of the best donuts I’ve ever had! I also finally remembered to pick up a lighter and some groceries for the road... Now if only I could remember to trim my shoelaces a little shorter...

Around 2pm we get to the parking lot where I set David up with the weave, figure 8, riding as slow as possible, and emergency braking. He was a very good student, learned fast, and listened well so I only had to do a little instructing and then I was able to play on Facebook while keeping an eye on him. He practiced for about 2.5-3 hours before Maria came to get us, I dropped the BMW f310gs off, grabbed the 650, and went back to the house. The rest of the evening was spent relaxing and mentally preparing to hit the road the next day while Maria was gone all evening at a meeting with David over marketing stuff.

​August 17:
29 lei - lock @ dedeman
72 lei - gas 12 liters
27 lei - lighter and sausage

Sunday August 18

I was up around 6:30 but didn’t get out of bed until 7 when Maria got up. The morning was spent cleaning up my dishes, packing food for the road, taking out trash, and packing the bike. She had to leave for the airport at 9 so I spent about 20 minutes doing some work for bunk-a-biker before I was ready to ride.

9:30 was the start of my ride and I took E70, much like an interstate, to Pitesti to save time. The bike handled wonderfully at high speeds with lots of power to accelerate but I kept it around 120kmph. I had one stop for a photo of a statue in Curtea de Arges and then up the famous pass known as Transfăgărășan.

One of my first saved points was Poenari Citadel but it was closed due to bears (which I made the lady say half a dozen times but didn’t understand until I saw a sign out front). But I stopped at a couple other spots for photos before moving on to Vidraru Dam. This was my first indication it was going to be a crowded day because the dam was packed full of people. I did my photo thing, bought a couple magnets and continued on. The whole time I’m having to pass slow cars to enjoy my ride but it’s alright because it’s legal here to do so. And people expect it so they just ignore us motorcycles.

As I was rounding a corner I saw some steps going down to a river so I pulled off and took a break to check that out. I was the only one there and it was nice compared to the rest of what I had seen. At every pull off there was someone having a full blown, brought their own table and grill, picnic or selling food of some sort. They say there’s a bear problem on the road and I wonder why...

Further along I stop at a manmade waterfall to take photos. There were 4 of the most annoying instagram posers I’ve ever had the displeasure to be around who took forever to selfie 600 times so I could get a shot of the spot. *sigh* People.

Soon I come up to the hard upwards climb that makes mountain passes so curvy and fun. I hang out with a couple asses for a few minutes, hike around for some photos, and carry on. Every so often I’d pull off for photos and I got so lucky as to be at one when a sheep herder came by with his herd. It was very awesome to watch the sheep navigate the steep terrain and how well the guy had control of them. I definitely got lucky.

The unfortunate part of the day was that the best part of the pass and the lake that’s the most beautiful, Balea, was backed up traffic for miles. Being a motorcycle, I just split between oncoming and stopped traffic, even riding thru a narrow bridge with 2 other motorcycles, but it was frustrating. Dealing with that for an hour pushed my patience and I was done with the area for the day. So I boogied to a gas station near Cartisoara where I took a break before finishing my day.

There was more backed up traffic as I headed west but again, being a motorcycle has its advantages. In Sibiu was a tourist attraction called The Council Tower that I stopped at to walk up. I think I was supposed to pay but no one was there and I couldn’t read the signs. Oops. I didn’t mean to, I promise. It was only supposed to be 2 lei. ($.50)

Continuing on, I got to Sebes with much less traffic and had to ride 2.2 miles in gravel to reach Rapa Rosie where I was going to camp. I found the spot on iOverlander and it turned out to be fine. There were other people parked around but I was left alone in my little corner where I hung my hammocks. I climbed the hill to check out the sunset and then played on my phone for the rest of the evening.

End notes: I ate leftover pork chops, cucumbers, sliced ham, cheese, and carrots throughout the day.

​August 18:
66 lei - gas
107 lei - souvenirs
3 - water

Monday August 19

Due to my laziness and unwillingness to ride in even remotely chilly weather if I can avoid it, I stayed in my hammock until the ripe time of 9am. By the time I was packing up, all the others who had camped in the field nearby were gone and that was fine by me. My first order of business was to find a gas station to use the bathroom (toilet is the best universal word to use for bathroom btw) and that was easily done in Sebes. From Sebes I headed north and stopped off in Alba Lulia to sightsee some buildings around the Citadel Alba-Carolina. I spent about half an hour walking around and I enjoyed it seeing as how it wasn’t busy. For souvenirs I picked up a couple magnets (this seems to be the cheap souvenir around these parts).

Continuing on, I was aiming for Scărişoara Glacier Cave as my next tourist stop and got very lucky on the ride there. DN74 was a BEAUTIFUL ride and I fell in love with the road, the scenery, and the glorious lucky weather I had. The road was newly paved and perfectly twisty. Before I got to the cave, I stopped at the perfect spot on the river or creek. I took my shoes off and walked thru the water, taking pictures and cooling off a little bit from being in the sun before moving on.

Google led me to a nonexistent road to the cave which required me to turn back and ask for directions at the restaurant nearby. Since I was stopped anyway, I spent the $7 for a good meal and a bottle of water before continuing.

Up the technical road to the cave, the views were amazing and getting to see the country side was pleasant. I parked in the area and did the 10 minute hike up to the cave entrance where there was a long line. Unfortunately people are super slow so descending the many stairs to the glacier cave took a bit but it’s alright, it was cool and my sweat was drying up nicely.

There was a guy talking about the cave but I didn’t understand a word of it so I took a few photos and was going to leave. I was at the back of the line and I didn’t have the patience to wait for everyone to climb so I was about to turn around to go. The guide gestures at me and a guy in line told me that I needed to see something at the back of the cave. I did my best to explain that I didn’t have time and he said go backwards. (The walkway was a big circle) So I rushed back to see these glorious icicles and I was glad I did. Then I made good time getting a workout on the stairs back up, bought some more magnets, and continued towards Oradea.

The rest of DN74 was just as awesome as the beginning and I truly fell in love with the area as a whole. I hope I get to go back and ride more roads around there. Anyway, after some confusion at a gas station I was northbound on E74. It was country side, town, country side, town all the way until I started getting sore from riding all day.

So I was getting tired and started looking for a spot to sneak off to for some sleep tonight. Well, I see this big pile of rocks and figure I wouldn’t bother anybody there. So I’m sitting here on my phone and this pile-o-junk car pulls in with 3 young boys in it. They’re messing around, I can’t understand what they’re saying, and I’m annoyed cause I want to be unknown of back here. Well eventually I look over and realize they’re trying to push start their car. I walk over, ask if they know English, and proceed to explain how to do it. I helped push it down the hill, it starts, they shake my hand, thank me, and continue on their way.

I had to wait a few hours for the sun to go down and then I spent the rest of the night on the hard ground on my sheet and with my quilt. I didn’t get much sleep but I’ll survive.

​
August 19:
22 lei - souvenirs
28 lei - food
13 lei - cave
15 lei - postcards

You've overcome every obstacle in your life to this point or you wouldn't be here to worry about the "what ifs." - Zee Traveler
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